Skopje & Prilep

I don't get to ask as many questions as I would like when I am visiting- a lot of what peaks my interest is just normal life and people find questions about that a bit strange.

The country feels a bit - un-regimented, a lot of sub-economies filling gaps left by what in our life would be organized and restricted by local government.  There are brand new high rises going up, along side or across from buildings that look either like a dream unfulfilled or a derelict left behind, too much trouble to clear out.  This dichotomy is strange to see, like the modern expensive car next to the mule drawn cart of young men who are collecting garbage in lieu of a company.

There are so many ancient and also new churches, but still the roadside altars as if one should never be further than a five minute trip to a place where one can give money to a specific saint.

There are buildings that still remind me of the bronx, while the corners continue to bloom with grand statues and new churches.

Macedonia, wilted flowers, battered feet

We had hoped to avoid the heat in Macedonia by going early in the summer, but for me 90s/27c is as bad as 100s/30c+, I just lose all motivation or worse.  I do best in summer rains, light storms, or a steady winter.

I, think on this, my fourth (fifth?) trip to Macedonia the older family members must have believed I was going to learn the language all along, because they just kept speaking to me in Macedonian as if they could will me to understand. 

Younger members have gotten older, and they will sometimes be near and speak English with me.  There is a strangeness to liking people, being connected to them and knowing that actually neither of you are quite 'known' to one another.

I also feel very naive when I am there- people known a lot about so many countries, in part because of history, in part due to the admissions process of becoming part of the EU.  I do not remember many Americans knowing so much about the other states they are connected too.  My naivety shows when I say/think how much better life would be if Sweden could get produce from Macedonia, a country closer than say...Brazil.  Then someone explains to me the standardization laws that come with being part of the EU, and all the things I have read about 'ugly food' movements starts to become clear.  Of course, the problem is more complicated than what the store near you wants to stock.

I managed to really hurt the back of my foot on our stairs the week we were going to Macedonia, so I had the added trouble of not being able to walk well or far. After these past few years though, I can really recognize unique qualities in the country- I am happy to have seen so much of it.  I ate my weight in vegetables and fruits.  There is a new cultural center up above Skopje that I loved and am trying to talk my way into staying there on our next trip.

Macedonian Village 

Ohrid, Macedonia

Zok and I took a couple of days to drive out to Ohrid, Macedonia.

As modern day Macedonia no longer has a coast line, this lake is a big draw during summer when the days are mostly in the upper 30 c.

Ohrid is also a UNESCO site as there are archeological digs not only on land but in the lake.  In the lake there are settlement remains from the neolithic through the end of the Bronze age.

There is a theatre from sometime in the Hellenic period, probably after the Roman conquest.  There are finds from the time that Ohrid was a world power during the early Byzantine era.

They are still uncovering sites - the larger monastery here has been beautifully reconstructed- the interior walls have just about three feet of the original frescoes from the 10th century.  But after the fall of the Macedonian Czar, the walls were whitewashed and parts torn down to convert the building into a Mosque during the early 15th century. On the same site is the remains of a basilica from the 4th or 5th centuries. 

This is activity of building on top of buildings is common as the area was conquered, then liberated, then conquered again.  As I read about the areas, the attitudes of people, and the modern day museum of 'The Macedonian Struggles' make more and more sense.  The Mosques in particular caused much damage because by custom they must be "highest", so Macedonian churches were destroyed, and if allowed to be built they are built in such a way that you must walk down into the church.

People do not have to be religious in the American sense- because religion simply permeates everything.

"3 blind mice, roll the dice, did you ever see such a thing in your life?"

Perhaps I am feeling deep inside the promise of spring, here gazing at my lilac tree in bloom. Although yesterday I was in Melbourne were all around was blasting heat that felt as if it emanated from concrete not sun.
Still I can not bring myself to write about most of of our trip because I have don't want to sully spring with negativity.

The priests worn robes, I think they were silk, they looked comfortable.
The sandalwood incense was really strong.
I couldn't really muster the energy to get anyone to explain to me why at six months presents were given. The impression I got was that people buy other people items in representation. So a neighbor of about the same age and stature of Mara, might buy a gift from her to a grandchild.
Actually I might be completely wrong, but witness that there were presents, wrapped and all.

We did some visiting this time. This seemed to cheer Zok a bit or at least being around other people reminded us that we do live in a world outside of Lalor. Neither of us need to profit from loss.

Zok's friend PM is involved in a really cool pub called the Gasometer, on Smith and Alexander Parade.
They had my favorite N.Z. beer on tap- Montieths and a vegan/vegetarian menu. Open fire places, high booths, coat hooks and nice looking varnished wood.
The best part was the additional room which had a huge, high tin shed roof that retracts!
This will be the beer garden.