Thursday, August 14, 2008

Prague through Beer Goggles




The beer in Prague was approximately one half the price of a Coca-cola in a bottle. The average price of a local draft beer in the .5 litre size was 22 kr., a 12 oz. coke was 48 kr. Mistakenly due to heat daze we once paid 50 kr for our beer, but I think this was balanced out by a lunch which had where the beer came included with the price of the meal. I felt fully vindicated because I had been crowing for weeks that I intended to only drink beer while in Prague. I was true to my word, except that apparently a litre of beer in one sitting is my limit.
Zok and I have traveled to a lot of places but I can't remember being in a place that was so obviously overrun by tourists in every part of the city. Even here in Stockholm a person can go to a neighborhood where there are more locals than people stopped in the middle of a street, map fully unfolded, guide book in the other hand. Every area in Prague was haunted by large groups of tourists, and many of them in organized groups so large that more than one guide (each holding up some sort of flag to keep their flock together) was needed. We saw groups that were so large that each person had a small receiver the shape of a walkie-talkie that made it possible for the whole group to hear the guide.
Highlight: We went into a couple antique stores that gave me an immediate buzz of excitement; I could sense the bargains and treasure all around me. I rarely get that feeling anymore. These days I get this sense of loss, because I did not understand when I was younger that all the vintage items I lusted for were actually part of a finite supply. I would pass up items because I saw similar items in stores all the time and somehow I believed they would always be there for me. Now that I live in Australia where finding items such as a 1940s rayon dress, a slider rocker, or a Formica kitchen set is laughable (and by laughable I mean I have asked vintage shop owners only to be laughed at), I really appreciate finding vintage items. I only bought a couple of dresses, but I feel content in my heart knowing that there is an exquisite pair of crocodile platform heels tucked away in a dark corner of a small shop on the outer edge of Mala Strana. I felt as if I had come across an previously thought extinct bird.
Lowlight: I have had friends tell me in detail how much they love Prague. Many guidebooks rave that Prague is the best city in Europe. I did think that Prague has been through a lot. I am sure the huge events both natural and political have changed the city. If the Prague you remember was free of graffiti, trash, and homeless, if her streets were empty where one can idly stand and gaze undisturbed at the ornate buildings, free of construction on every corner and with a population that seemed happy and welcoming, then I would issue caution, serious caution before going back. If you insist on returning, may I recommend going before the Euro changes the price of the beer as beer is key to overlooking much that could color your perspective.


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